A handy daytrip north of Saranda is the elegant resort of Dherni. The epic Ceraunian Mountains descend right to the water’s edge, and the village is perched on a steep slope. 

This suffuses the location with real drama, and at Drymades Beach you can look up to see clouds rolling over the peaks of the mountains, even while the rest of the landscape is bathed in sunshine. 

You can set off up the hills to visit two historic monasteries or instead embark on a boat trip to see the caves and islands around this rugged stretch of coast.