When Düsseldorf decided to reclaim the wasteland of its former river port area, instead of razing the derelict warehouses and freight yards, they rehabilitated the most historic of them and replaced others with some of Europe's most daring modern architecture.

 The best of it is in Neue Zollhof, a stunningly redeveloped section highlighted by the Frank O. Gehry-designed office buildings of Media Harbor, three quite distinct structures completed in 1998 that seem to defy gravity as they lean and curve like jelly frozen in mid-wobble.