First we’ll deal with what’s inside the walls. The streets within the citadel are a Disney-esque dreamland of passageways and winding alleys.

There’s an engaging lack of symmetry to the old stone buildings, some with exposed timbers and others clad with ivy.

It will be an effort not to walk around with your camera glued to your face.

The ideal time to come is early, before the tourist hordes and lunch time.

Most of the restaurants and crêperies are geared towards day-trippers anyway, and this labyrinth of streets is at its best when semi-deserted.